Africa

Detail image of a beaded object with red, white, blue, green, and black beads.

African jewelry differentiates between the sexes, emphasizes the anatomy, and indicates social status and wealth, sometimes serving as a form of currency. Beads made from glass and precious stones, amber and gold, cowrie shells, ivory, and lost wax cast pendants and bracelets abound in African jewelry traditions.听

The use of glass beads dates to the Ptolemaic period in Egypt and Venetian glass beads were used as a medium of exchange from the 1500s on with smaller glass seed beads becoming popular in Central, Eastern and Southern Africa. Cowrie shells from the Maldive Islands were also incorporated into jewelry.

  • Image of a carved wooden figure with beaded jewelry and blue headdress.
  • Image of a carved wooden figure with beaded jewelry and blue headdress.

Yoruba Twin Figures from Nigeria

19th Century

The Yoruba have one of the highest rates of twin births in the world. Twins are honored with carved memorial figures when they die. These figures, called Ere ibeji, carry on the spirit of the departed individual. The figures are cared for ritually. The elaborate hair styles feature indigo blue pigments.

Donated in Memory of Professor Vincent Hartgen

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Single strand of copper rings with stamped flower design.

Nigerian Brass Donut Bead Necklace

c. 1960

Robert Waite Collection

Image of necklace made with large, round, amber-colored beads.

Amber and Silver Necklace

This necklace from Mali would likely represent a significant part of a woman鈥檚 dowry.

Mr. and Mrs. Robert Rothschild Collection

Image of copper bracelet with seven raised points.

Ashanti Bronze Bracelet

Mr. and Mrs. Robert Rothschild Collection

Image of necklace with decorative gold links and carved red stone elements.

Ashanti Necklace

Late-19th to Early-20th Century

This necklace includes gold lost wax cast elements and bauxite beads.

Mr. and Mrs. Robert Rothschild Collection

Image of bangle made of ivory.

Ibo Ivory Bracelet

Ivory bracelets were worn by women indicating their social status 鈥 the heavier the bracelet the higher the wearer鈥檚 rank.

Mr. and Mrs. Robert Rothschild Collection

Image of a golden fish ornament with detail elements.

Ashanti Fish Pendant

Pendants were used in ceremonial events by diviners to ward off evil spirits.

Mr. and Mrs. Robert Rothschild Collection

Image of stylized, angular face carved from wood.

Dan Passport Mask

Miniature masks worn as pendants were often commissioned by families that possessed important family masks. These miniature versions served as a means of personal identification when traveling beyond their immediate community. Some were commissioned to provide the wearer
with protective powers or indicated that they were a member of a secret society.

Estate of Martha J. Stevens Collection

Image of copper bracelet with large decorative orbs around circumference.

Dan Anklet

Mid-20th Century

A women鈥檚 social status was represented by the number and size of the bells.

Aline Hulbert Collection

Image of wide cuff bracelet with ridges.

Fang or Kota Anklet from Gabon

Mid-20th Century

This anklet represents a form of currency used in marriage transactions.

Aline Hulbert Collection

Image of a thick brass bracelet with applied details.

Yoruba Bracelet Currency

Aline Hulbert Collection

Image of stiff, circular beaded necklace with silver ornament.

Maasai Beaded Necklace

c. 1960

Among the Maasai beaded necklaces were often everyday adornment and they could indicate social or marital status. Sometimes they were given as rites of passage or signs of respect and gratitude.

Harry T. Treworgy Collection

Beaded waist ornament in white, blue, pink, red, and yellow.

Zulu 鈥淟ove Letter鈥 Belt

19th Century

This South African beadwork form was worn by women.